After watching the EpicTV serie, Europe’s Best Crags we wanted to try the climbing in Finale. This was also on our way to France so spending a week here was not a difficult choice to make. It turned out that Finale is one of the places we like the best so far – actually that good that we’re playing with the idea of moving here one day (inspired by a Swedish climber we met who did the same thing 15 years ago, and still lives here). If you’re into hiking, climbing, enduro mountain biking or just chilling at the beach on the Italian Riviera, this is the right place to be!
Climbing, Grotta del Edera
Grotta del Edera is truly one of the obligatory stops for climbers, and also a popular sight for tourists. The crag is situated inside a sylinder formed cave with a window in the top and on the side. A beautiful sight for the eye together with beautiful climbing. The approach into the cave is also worth the visit, it’s dark and tight so you really get an adventurous feeling. The end is so tight that you can’t even go there with your backpack on. And when you enter the cave from the opening it’s such a beautiful view. Even though this is one of the «typical» places to climb, if you’re here for the first time, it’s worth a visit.
Outside the cave we met a small group of people with a guide, lucky for us the guide, Thomas Tomassi are the author of the Finale Climbing Guidebook. That was funny, the same guy photographed in the book was standing in front of us telling us which routes we should climb and which crags we should visit. He was really nice and helpful. The climbing in Grotta del Edera is very good with quality routes. Typical Finale bolting (far between bolts), so it’s also a test for your mental strength.
Climbing Per Uscire Dalle Tenebre 6c+ (left) and Bombolo 6b (right)
Lubna 7b (left), Remember we as a friend 6b (middle)
On the top of Bombolo
Outside the cave. Miriam is talking with Thomas Tomassi, the author of the Finale Climbing Guidebook
Entering the crag. No room for backpacks in the end
Climbing, Monte Cucco
A large and famous climbing crag with lots of history starting already in 1968. The crag has been very popular for ages, hence also known for being very polished. That we can agree on, but we found some good routes, and spent some time here before the rain came and made it even more polished.
Climbing, Bric Reseghe
Thomas (author of the guidebook) recommended us to go to this crag. We found some routes to climb, but this was on a Saturday so it was super crowded and very busy. There are also a lot of easier routes on slabs which is not our favorite so this crag didn’t really appeal to us. But it’s cool to have tried it, as we’re definitely coming back to Finale. It was on this crag we met a Swedish climber who moved here 15 years ago. He mentioned a lot of climbing on the way to France and around Nice. The guidebook that we have (which covers so many climbing routes – the book is really thick) covers only Finale, and there are much more not far away. We have to come back again, soon.
View to the Bric Reseghe crag
Smula and Christoffer on their way to the crag (left), crowded crag (middle), Miriam on Stand By Me – 7a (right)
Our campsite was situated in the city next to Finale Ligure, in Pietra Ligure. It took us about 10 minutes to drive to Finale. The town we fell completely in love with, especially the old part, Finalborgo. The Old town is filled with small shops, lots of climbing shops, restaurants, cafes and sporty people. Climbers and enduro mountain bikers. We have never been to a place where almost everyone is either climbers or bikers. Wherever you go in Finalborgo people come to have a drink or something to eat after a session in the mountains around. If you’re there you really have to go to Pizzeria Cuki’s. The owner is very nice and service minded, she loved Smula, and her pizza is just amazing.
We had real luck one of the afternoons we were in the town. Suddenly there was a huge poster about a Patagonia Event with Alex Megos. The event was about to start in an hour so of course we had to go there. It was a nice happening with lots of climbers and good tasting beer.
Enjoying the stunning view over Finale
Walking in Via Tommaso Pertica (left), Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II (middle & right)
Promenading by Vittoria Beach
Walking in Finalborgo. The gate Porta Testa in front
Mountain Bikes everywhere
The Patagonia Event. Free repairs of Patagonia clothes – very cool
- Flat pitch on grovel (other pitches was also on grass)
- Very good sanitary facilities
- ACSI Discount
- Not far from the beach
- Large campsite not far from motorway (easy to navigate our mothership)
We had a very nice week during our stay at this campsite. Worth to mention is that in high season it would be close to impossible for us to stay here. There were plenty of pitches available, hence also space to park and drive our caravan inside the campsite. We concluded that low season is the best time for us to travel in Italy.