Climbing in Innsbruck – North of Tirol (2/3)

Innsbruck is a famous climbing destination offering excellent climbing for all types of climbers. The Climbing World Championships took place in Innsbruck at the time we were in the area, so we simply couldn’t miss out. Especially because this year it would be the biggest Climbing World Championships of all times. Lead, Bouldering, Speed, and the Olympic Combined format was carried out. The whole event was really fun to follow, and we got lots of time to climb both inside and at some of the fantastic sport climbing crags of Innsbruck

In order to find the crags and get the guidance we needed, we bought the guidebook “Tirol – Sportklettern in Nordtirol”. The stores in Innsbruck did only have a German guidebook, but as long as we understand what we need to understand, that works totally fine. This is a nice guidebook covering Innsbruck and the areas around.

Zillertal

We’ll definitely come back to Zillertal. There are so many nice sport climbing routes here. Technical and demanding granite climbing. We just loved the whole area; the nature and surroundings, the river next to the crag, the cows grazing on the field and the atmosphere of strong climbing. We went to Zillertal two times during our stay. Both the times we climbed at the crag Ewige Jagdgründe, mostly at the sector “Wig und Wam». The other sectors are really nice climbing too, but not that nice for Smula. He likes a bit of shadow, a bit of sun (so that he can chose), safe ground to play around at, and if he’s really in heaven: a small river with floating leaves that he can catch (like the sector”Wig und Wam»).

When we come back to Zillertal we’ll also go bouldering. We’ve heard it’s very nice and we saw a lot of people with crashpads camping there.

The cover photo and the image to the left is with a view to the sector Hauptling on Ewige Jagdgründe in Zillertal. The image to the right shows the sector Wig und Wam.

Wig und Wam to the left. Climbing at Hauptling and Einhorn to the right.

Long day for Smula too. Here at the Wig und Wam sector.

Sport climbing in Ötztal

We went to the crag Engelswand in Ötztal together with Maren and Markus. An hour drive from Innsbruck (prepare for lots of turns) through beautiful valleys, surrounded by spectacular mountains and plenty of ski resorts. Cows and horses walking in the road – the drive was an adventure in itself. The crag was easy to find and close to the parking lot. Parking costs €3 for a whole day and includes toilet facilities at the crag. We went there on a sunny Sunday in September so it was both very crowded and warm. There are routes in all grades here, hence many people. Next time we’ll go to Niederthai, we were told that this is a very nice and idyllic granite crag in Ötstal.

View from the crag.

Bouldering in Vomperbach

Maren and Markus came to visit us in the weekend again. Before the bouldering finals in the evening we decided to check out some bouldering areas close to Innsbruck and went to Vomperbach. The boulders here are more or less placed in the river, with beautiful surroundings. This was such a great day, very cool to climb over the water and a little bit wet for some of us. In some parts of the riverside it was even white sand (we almost forgot that we’re in the Alps in Tyrol). There were also a lot of paths along the river, we didn’t go far this day, but it seems like a nice place for hiking as well.

When we came back to the parking lot we found a parking ticket in our windows. Obviously, it’s forbidden to park there and they are very strict about it. The Police told us that people who lives in this valley call the Police immediately when cars drive by their houses. It’s understandable that they don’t want people to park there anymore, it’s been some huge issues with trash close to the parking. It’s really sad that unresponsible people ruin for others. There was a sign in the beginning of the road, which obviously means that it’s not aloud to drive there unless you live there. We didn’t really understand the sign so we continued and parked at the parking. Nevertheless, it should have been marked better that parking here will result in a fine. The police were really nice to us though, and we only had to pay for one ticket in stead of two. Learning by doing! 

The water is so clear that it’s almost impossible to see it.

Smula would rather prefer to have the craspads for himself.

We didn’t find this boulder in our PDF guide, but had to try it – such a fun boulder over the water. 

Such a beautiful place to play around.

Martinswand

We wanted to go climbing, but didn’t have that much time. Therefore we went to one of the nearest sport climbing crags in Innsbruck (with an easy access). We went to Martinswand and the Dschungelbuch crag. It wasn’t really our day or crag. It was very warm and the crag is in the sun. We knew that before we went here, but didn’t really expect it to be this hot. It was also a bit difficult to walk along the crag with Smula, it’s pretty steep all the way. Some routes looked very cool, but in this heat it was nearly impossible to climb it, no friction at all. This crag is definitely better in the morning or evening on a warm day. Even though it’s a bit steep to walk from the parking lot, it’s easy access and the few minutes of steep walking is really not an issue, rather a good warm up. However, easy access is often related to super crowded crags. So, if possible, try to avoid the weekends.

Starkenbach

This was our last day together with Maren and Markus. We were pretty exhausted after bouldering the day before and staying active for many days in a row. Still, we decided to visit Starkenback crag, not far from the town Imst, and chose the sector Im Reich der Schwalben. We found it a bit hard actually, but that may be a result of tired bodies and high temperature. It was a nice day even though we only climbed a route or two. This is also a crag we could come back to in the future.

Climbing World Championships Innsbruck 2018

At first we just bought tickets for the lead finals. When we realized how much we liked Innsbruck and decided to stay for longer, we also bought tickets for the bouldering finals. We did also watch some of the qualifications. The qualifications took place on the outdoor walls of Kletterzentrum Innsbruck, which looked pretty epic with the mountains in the background. The finals was inside of the Olympic stadium. Compared to the Bouldering Worldcup in Munich it was a huge difference with numbered seats, we could actually see everything. The finals was so fun to watch live and to really feel the atmosphere. The lead finals especially, was epic. The routes, the music, the climbers – all set for a perfect show. The bouldering finals was cool as well, but the music was a bit weird (we’re joking about a drunk DJ). Nevertheless, this climbing event killed it, we had such a great time. We also have to admit that it’s kind of cool to get the chance to climb next to some of the strongest climbers in the world. Very fascinating to watch and interesting to see how surprisingly small many of the climbers are. But yet, so terrible strong.

Mens lead qualifications.

Mens bouldering qualifications.

Lead finals are on!

Kletterzentrum Innsbruck 

This climbing gym is our new favorite and we’ll definitely come back some day. We went here 3 times in total. 2 days with bouldering and the last day for lead climbing. We really enjoyed being here. So many cool routes and a very nice atmosphere. The size of it is also worth to mention. It’s huge and has room for everyone. It doesn’t really matter that it’s crowded, there are still plenty of routes to climb and enough space. The best part of Kletterzentrum Innsbruck is probably the walls outside, both lead climbing and bouldering. We would strongly recommend this gym to everyone, even if you’ve never climbed before. And if you’re here at the same time as a climbing event you’re guaranteed to see some of the climbing stars train for the competitions.

Maybe understandable that this is our favorite climbing gym?

Read more about our stay in Innsbruck here.

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